Abel Tasman Seal with Guide Andy
Plunging our paddles into the crystal blue water, we nudge the double kayak into Abel Tasman Marine Reserve. After rounding the point towards Shag Harbour, Andy the curly headed guide from Kahu Kayaks calls out, “Seal on the rocks.”
Sleek and dark, the young New Zealand fur seal suns himself on the boulders. He decides he needs a better view of us and swims over to investigate. As he gets closer, the distinctive aroma of seal fills the air- musky and swampy with a definite twinge of fish guts.
The seal isn’t the least bit intimidated. He swims around, peering, rolling and poking a fin in the air. When we don’t do any tricks interesting to seals, he moves on, back to bask on the rocks.
Shag on Falls River, Abel Tasman
We paddle along the coast, visiting Tonga Arches, Bonk Bay (unofficially named unlike the also scandalous Shag Harbour), Onetahuti and Tonga Island. Clear water, fur seals and stunning views abound. Luncheon is taken at the eponymously named Mosquito Bay. No mosquitoes were in evidence.
Sandflies were more noticeable around the corner at Sandfly Bay where we headed up Falls River a few hundred meters using our paddles stuck in the air as improvised sails until coming to a swingbridge that is part of the Abel Tasman Track overhead. Shags line the river on the way out, a fact Andy says endlessly amuses a certain type of English tourist along with the name “Shag Harbour.”
Abel Tasman Kayaking with Mel and the Man
Power paddling to get to Anchorage Bay on time for our water taxi pickup, we get into the sea breeze. Enough of paddling, we are going to sail the rest of the way. We’d envisioned the small sails you see on the occasional kayak in open water. But Kahu Kayaks has another way. An improvised full-fledged spinnaker. Andy has us position ourselves to port, the English tourists James and Jemma go starboard and Andy wedges in the middle.
Jemma and I grab hold of Andy’s kayak with our inside hand and the bottom of a sail in our outside hand. James and the Man slip the sail on the ends of their paddles and hoist aloft. The wind is a good 12-15 knots and it promptly rips off of the paddles first on James side, then after rehoisting, on the Man’s. Jemma and I are alternately swamped with wet sail.
Tying the sail on to the paddles instead, we surge forward. Jemma and I hang on for dear life, trying to keep the three kayaks together and our sail ends in place. Water pours over us, dowsing us completely through our spray skirts. The lads in the back are getting the same treatment. Normally, it takes about 45 minutes to kayak a distance we cover in 15 minutes of mad sailing. The jealous kayakers on the beach who’d had to slog it in furiously take pictures as we scream into the bay, settling on the beach without another stroke of the paddle. Video of this hugely fun insanity below.
Basic full day itenerary for the “Kahu Classic Marine Reserve Tour” lunch included.
Departure time 8:30 am from Kahu Kayaks, followed by a short van ride to Marahau, piling onto the water taxi that is deposited on the water by tractor. Water taxi ride to Onetahuti. Approximately 14 km of kayaking ending up at Anchorage Bay to be picked up by water taxi and deposited back at Marahau around 4 pm.
Exertion Factor: Highly dependant on your kayak partner. I was able to paddle or not as my body required (but mostly paddling) as the Man is big, strong and up for a good paddle. I pushed myself to a 7/10, but could have paddled significantly less if I’d needed to do so. The guides will also be aware of making the best tour for a variety of people with different physical abilities. Half day tours also available.
***Andy explained that paddling on a kayak should be about pushing like Jackie Chan’s martial arts, not pulling. The arm with the paddle OUT of the water should be doing the work as you use bigger, more powerful muscles that way. Using this technique took a bit of mental rearranging, but greatly decreased my fatigue. Thanks Andy!
Physical Blocks: Ability to paddle for several hours at a leisurely pace. Getting in and out of kayaks with assistance, if needed. Andy steadied the kayaks whilst we got in.
Mental Blocks: Fear of boats? Scared of seals? This adventure was not high on mental blocks.
Time of Year: Best from November through to April is my guess. Young seals are allowed away from Mama Seal and very curious around March/April. Dolphins hadn’t started to appear for this early December trip, but the guides were expecting to start seeing them any day.
Gear: Swimsuit, quick dry clothes, towel, sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat.
Fantastic Factor: 9/10 This trip far outstripped my expectations for fabulousness, even with high expectations. The exertion was less than I expected and the enjoyment correspondingly higher.
Cost: NZD$189 per person for the full day of kayaking. Half day tours combined with hiking, sailing on a catamaran or water taxi cruise are available. Check out Kahu Kayaks for all the details. I highly recommend Kahu for your tour. We chose them after asking a guide from another company who was the best- he told us Kahu. We believed him. Our trip was amazing and Andy was a great guide. But be sure to give the owner Steve a hard time if he hasn’t gotten any women’s t-shirts in when you visit.
Maximum Weight: N/A, but you do need to fit in the kayak. There was plenty of room for me.
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You should see Abel Tasman National Park from May to October – the time the rest of New Zealand calls “winter”. Sure, the days are cooler, but you’re supplied with all the right gear on a guided sea kayak trip and the Park still has the highest number of sunshine hours in the country. The wildlife is friendlier and there is more of it when there are less people around.
I’d certainly love to visit during winter to see the difference. I imagine it is just as stunning as in summer.